Custom WoodCrafts

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive...

Using Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (CA)
in Woodworking

I use CA for many different applications around the shop, and primarily on woodturning projects. I use it as a wood stabilizer, a filler, a finish, and for attaching turning blocks to bowl blank. I also use CA as a clamp, and it works well for holding pieces together while a yellow glue is drying. I use CA anytime there is a project that requires a glue up that has end grain to end grain adhesion needed, and/or a very small gluing surface area... Box Joints is a typical application.
CA has some really nasty fumes, so always use in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the fumes. CA also bonds skin instantly, and for that reason I keep a bottle of Debonder handy....

CA as a wood stabilizer:

When turning a bowl end grain is sometimes a problem to deal with, as is punky, spalted, or other unstable areas that frequently include torn grain called tearout. I will soak these areas with Thin CA and then a light spritz with the spray accelerator to quicken drying. The Thin CA soaks into the wood deeply with most woods, and frequently will soak all the way through and be visible on the other side of a 1/2" thick bowl. The area that the CA was applied will be noticeably darker, and will look different if a finish is applied. For this reason, I apply CA to the entire surface when stabilizing an area so that the color will be uniform. The wood fibers will now be firm, and will cut cleanly rather than lay down or tearout.
I also use CA liberally to keep the bark in place when turning a natural edged bowl.

CA as filler

I use CA and sawdust as a filler on woodturning projects. If there are cracks or other inclusions that need filling, I will put some of the dust from sanding into the crack or hole, tap the area to vibrate the dust down into the hole, then apply CA, then some accelerator. Another method is to apply the thick CA, then sand the area and the sawdust will mix with the CA and become a filler. On a project that will be painted, baking soda can be used to fill a gap, then CA is applied. This becomes a very hard surface that can be sanded and even drilled. CA and baking soda is used in the model airplane circles to repair the airplane propellers! Tough stuff indeed.

CA as finish

CA is commonly used a finish on small turning projects such as pens... and I use it also as finish on small bowls, followed with a wax... The properties that make this finish so desirable is that it is extremely durable and hard, and easy to apply. CA applied to a smooth wood surface, then sanded to the microgrits that are available through 12000 grit for example, then waxed or polished with one of the available polishes will look and feel like glass... and since it builds quickly and there is virtually no waiting time between coats, it is a very popular finish with the pen turning crowd.
Here is the process I use when finishing a pen with CA....
With the lathe spinning at the slowest speed, and the pen blank sanded to 220 grit, I take a ScotchBrite pad and hold the pad under the spinning blank and just let it rub... then I apply the CA on top of the blank... the pad keeps the CA from splattering, and also works to spread the CA onto the blank. Once the blank is saturated, I then use an old t-shirt and make one light pass under the blank to absorb the excess CA, then I give the blank a light spritz of accelerator. I then sand with 600 - microgrits... depending on the wood.... usually at least 1200.
I clean the blank with a brush and clean rag, then apply 3 coats of wax... first the brown PPP Hut, then the white, then a final coat of pure carnuba.

CA as clamp

I use CA as a clamp when I am gluing up a project that requires yellow glue. A small amount of Thick CA is applied to both sides of a glue up, then the yellow glue is applied as normal. Now, instead of clamping, the CA on one side of the glue up is sprayed with an accelerator, then the pieces are immediately assembled and held for 10 seconds. The CA will hold the pieces as a clamp would until the yellow glue dries, and there is no clamp marks or a bulky clamp in the way in case I need to drill and install screws, etc. This clever little trick has many applications... just think about it :)
I use this same method for attacking glue blocks (also called waste blocks) to a bowl turning so that the bowl can be turned and then the waste block can be detached with a sharp rap with a mallet. Apply Thick CA to both sides, spray one side with accelerator, then attach immediately. In a few seconds the piece will be ready to mount and turn on the lathe.

CA on Box Joints and other end grain applications

The problems with joining 2 pieces with a box joint is that usually the joint is very tight and also you have very little glue area when using thin wood, as in a small box application, and you are also dealing with end grain that will wick the moisture from the yellow glue. So, what you need is a glue that will adhere before it can be absorbed, thrives in a tight joint, and requires very little surface area. CA fits this bill exactly! Another nice little bonus using CA is that the small box joints can be sprayed with an accelerator, the box can be assembled and squared up without rushing, and then the Thin CA is applied to the outside of the joint and immediately wicks into the joint. The box will be ready to sand in a few moments! Any discoloration is then sanded off the outside, and the joints have no glue line and there's no glue squeezeout to deal with on the inside. Let me tell you... this works great!